Nike prices the general release Air Max 90 at $150 on its own site. On September 12 it will release a Wagyu version, built in premium leather and suede, with a metallic bronze Swoosh, rope laces and a certificate of authenticity in the box, and that shoe also costs $150. Collaboration pricing has been drifting upward for years, so a Harlem label getting a full Air Max 90 makeover at zero premium over the standard model is the detail worth pausing on here.
The Air Max 90 is Nike’s most durable everyday Air Max. It arrived in 1990 under the name Air Max III, and Nike’s own history page says it kept that name until the 2000 reissue. Tinker Hatfield designed it by working forward from the 1987 Air Max and the 1989 Air Max Light, and the 90 is the model that carried visible Air from a running shoe into a default sneaker. It is also Nike’s most collaborated Air Max, which is why the roster around it matters. A general release lands at $150 and a weak collaboration lands at $180 with worse leather. Recent versions on this site show the spread, from the Shadow Brown to the squared-off Volt version to the NFL team program. The 90 survives all of it because the silhouette is forgiving, and because the visible Air window in the heel gives every colorway one guaranteed focal point.
Wagyu’s version is black on black on black. The upper mixes smooth and perforated leather with suede panels through the midfoot, and the only real color break is a metallic bronze Swoosh that reads closer to copper in direct light. Cream rope laces run through the eyelets, which is the loudest thing on the shoe. Wagyu’s cow head logo is embossed on the tongue, printed on the insoles and worked into the heel, and the brand’s wordmark is stamped on the mudguard and again on the heel counter, all in black on black so it registers by texture rather than by contrast. The sockliner is deep red, the one flash of color that only shows when the shoe is off. Nike’s release copy leans all the way into the theme, calling the shoe “100% grade A Air” and describing it as marbled. Each pair ships with a certificate of authenticity modeled on the grading paperwork that comes with real A5 Wagyu beef, and a matching Nike Tech fleece set releases the same morning.

The read here is about who Nike is handing a full Air Max 90 to. Wagyu is a Harlem streetwear label whose Nike history runs back to custom Tech Fleece pieces in March 2025, according to Complex, and that is a very short runway to a signature makeup of one of Nike’s most valuable silhouettes. Nike’s own copy on the release names the brand’s founder only as Walter and frames the label around individuality and community rather than around a design credential. Nike has been steadily rebuilding through smaller partners after several years of leaning on a handful of very large names, and this is what that program looks like at the product level. The restraint helps. There is no story printed across the toe box and no oversized branding, just materials and one bronze Swoosh, which is the version of a collaboration that still looks correct in three years.
At $150 the Wagyu pair matches Nike’s own general release Air Max 90 exactly, runs ten dollars above most of the NFL team versions at $140 and five above the Air Max 90 Premium “Scorpion” at $145. That is the whole argument for buying it at retail. The added leather, the suede, the rope laces and the printed certificate cost nothing over a stock pair. Air Max 90 collaborations have a wide resale range depending on the partner, and a first Nike footwear release from a small label with no prior sneaker on the market is hard to price ahead of the drop. What can be said is that the retail number leaves room, which is not true of most collaborations this year.

The Nike Air Max 90 x Wagyu in Black and Anthracite releases September 12, 2026 at 7:00 AM Eastern on Nike SNKRS and at nike.com, in men’s sizing, for $150. The style code is IR1979-010. The Nike Tech x Wagyu fleece full-zip hoodie drops the same morning through the same channels. For another current Nike Air release with a very different pricing argument, see the Air Max 95 Big Bubble “Greedy” at $200.
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